Can you repot an orchid in bloom

Other than watering and occasionally fertilizing them, you probably don't look closely at your orchids all that often when they're not in bloom.

Spring is the time to examine each plant with a critical eye to assess the need for repotting. It's also when you'll see the new growth that signals emergence from the dormant cycle—the best time for repotting.

Is it new? Holiday gift orchids or newly-purchased plants are often planted with sphagnum moss, which absorbs and holds water—creating prime conditions for orchid root rot. Repot all new orchids as soon as they're done blooming. When was the last re-potting? Orchids need both the nutrients from the chunky, loose bark mix they're planted in and the air space in between the pieces. As the mix breaks down to particle size, it compacts the air spaces inside the pot—virtually suffocating your orchid's roots.

Check the bark mix every spring and repot when you notice decomposition. Is it crowded in there? While orchids prefer a small pot—weaving their roots through the compost as they grow—they eventually run out of room. That's when their roots push the plant up above the rim of the pot or reach out into the air, looking for breathing space—a sure sign that it's time to re-pot.

The plant stem gets leggy and flops to the side. Aerial roots grow down over the edge of the pot. If the orchid is potted in coarse bark, the bark may be crumbly and soil-like, instead of firm. Phalaenopsis orchids come in many colors. You can tell from the flower form how they got their common name of the moth orchid. Phalaenopsis orchid repotting step-by-step 1.

Phalaenopsis orchids are epiphytes, meaning that in the wild their roots cling to tree branches, rather than delving into the soil. Terra cotta pots are more decorative and heavier, which helps support a top-heavy orchid.

However, they dry out quickly. I solve this problem by growing my orchid in a plastic pot and then dropping the plastic pot into a decorative clay or ceramic container for display.

Potting mix formulated specifically for orchids. There are many brands on the market, but here is my favorite orchid potting soil. Clean, sharp scissors or pruners. Dead and dry roots, and crumbly orchid potting mix, are signs that the plant is ready to be repotted. Remove the plant from its current container.

Gently use your fingers to comb through the roots and remove the old potting medium. Remove all of the old potting mix from the roots of your plant using your fingers or a sharp stream of water. Use the scissors to cut off any dead or dying leaves and roots. Use a clean, sharp scissors to trim away any dead roots before replanting. Add a few inches of orchid potting mix to the bottom of the pot. Place a few inches of orchid potting mix into the bottom of the pot before spreading the roots out into the container.

Gently place the root-pruned plant into the pot. Once the roots are settled into the pot, add more orchid potting mix. Water your newly repotted Phalaenopsis orchid in well. After the pot has been filled, water the plant in well.

I water by putting the pot in a sink full of tepid water for 45 minutes. As you repot an orchid, check the entire plant for pest s. Phalaenopsis orchid pests, such as mealybugs, aphids, and spider mites, can be wiped off the plant easily with a cotton swab soaked in rubbing alcohol. Transplant time is a great time to do this. Do not fertilize a Phalaenopsis orchid for two to three months after repotting.

Doing so could burn tender, newly developing roots. Use a damp cloth or paper towel to gently wipe off the leaves after transplanting is complete. For more on caring for indoor plants, check out the following articles: Common houseplant pests and organic control Fertilizing houseplants for success The best houseplants for apartments Caring for air plants Pin it! I suggest repotting them in the early spring, just before active growth begins.

I try to guide them down into the pot, yes. I would suggest removing the ball and untangling the roots before repotting. On anther note, I have no idea why there is so much blank space in my comment. Leave a Reply Cancel reply Your email address will not be published.

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Close Privacy Overview This website uses cookies to improve your experience while you navigate through the website. If the roots appear brown and mushy, trim them off, repot into a new mix, and decrease the frequency of watering. Always remember, orchids should never stand in water! This is normal for most orchid flower spikes. It is simply a sugary secretion. You can mist it with lukewarm water to dissolve it off.

This is referred to as bud blast, and can be caused by the following conditions: The plant has been too dry between watering, causing it to withdraw moisture from the buds. There may be some wide swings in temperature, where it may be too hot in direct sun, or the plant may be too close to an air conditioning or heating vent. There may be some fumes in the air caused by paint, natural gas leaks, or other chemicals.

Flowers naturally create their own methane and collapse after pollination to save energy for seed production. Certain forms of methane or ethylene may trigger bud or flower collapse. Cattleyas in particular are sensitive while in bud to overwatering, causing the buds to actually turn black in the sheath.

All plants need an adequate amount of light in order to flower correctly. Placing a plant in the center of a room, on a coffee table for example, is fine for display during an evening of entertaining, but to maintain proper growth and flower development it is best to keep the plant in its growing area near a window or under lights.

Phalaenopsis orchids never really go "dormant". When they aren't blooming, they put energy into making new leaves and roots. Continue to provide good light, water, and fertilizer. Things to consider: Is it time to repot? We recommend repotting every years as the mix breaks down, usually in the spring or early fall. See our potting mix and orchid repotting video.

Weather conditions? Long periods of cloudy days, cooler or hotter temperatures than normal can change when blooming will occur. Has the plant been moved to a different location? This is a very common question that really depends on what type of orchid you have.

In general, once orchids are finished blooming you can remove the spike with a scissors. If you do not remove the spike, the flower spike will dry up and turn brown over time. There are some orchids that can re-bloom off of the same flower spike more than once. Certain species of Oncidium such as the papilio can bloom off of a broken or cut back spike.

The most commonly re-blooming flower spike is that of the Phalaenopsis moth orchid. If your Phalaenopsis is of mature size such as 12" or more in leaf-span, cut it half way back just above one of the nodes the little notches on the flower spike. It should branch out in days with a new spike. Generally we recommend trying this only once per flower spike. Trying it a second or third time will result in less flowers. Cutting the flower spike completely off will give the plant more energy in order to produce a new flower spike with more flowers.

Almost all orchids drop leaves as they grow. Phalaenopsis orchids bottom leaves will turn yellow and fall off when it starts to produce new growth. Common white and purple Dendrobiums often drop all their leaves on each cane after they have finished blooming. With most orchids, old leaf growth naturally drops once new growth starts to emerge.

The only time you should be concerned about leaves dropping is when the new growth or large and mature leaves turn yellow or fall off. We have a few different Pest and Disease Control products to choose from.

Unless you have a deciduous orchid that has resting periods where it may drop all of its leaves, if an orchid has no leaves it is most likely dead. Examine the plant carefully if the largest leaves or new growth are changing colors. This is generally a leaf rot caused by types of fungi that are commonly classified as Cercospora or Colletotrichum.

Many times this rot will start out as yellow spots, gradually turning to a brown or black color. Note that certain plants such as most Oncidium hybrids often get several small black spots on the leaves due to the sun. In this case it is natural spotting and will not harm the plant. After treatment, examine to see if the spots are increasing in size or number within a week to 10 days. If you have successfully rid of the problem, the spots should dry up and turn brown.

If there are still signs of new rot, repeat treatment. Leaves that are heavily covered in rot should be completely removed.