Our primary goal at Radon Eliminator is to share the essential information as it relates to radon, its health effects and what you can do to protect yourself and your family. Radon Eliminator S. Ohio Mitigation License RC Home What is Radon? Reliable Radon Removal. Radon Eliminator Blog.
Radon Testing Radon is a naturally occurring radioactive gas produced by the breakdown of thorium and uranium in soil, rock, and water. It is also the only gas under standard conditions that has radioactive isotopes and is considered a health hazard due to its radioactivity level. Radon Gas is brought into a home through foundation cracks and other openings.
Air pressure inside a building is usually lower than the air pressure outside; this causes a vacuum effect known as pressure differentials which draws out the radon. The contract should describe exactly what work will be done prior to and during the installation of the system, what the system consists of, and how the system will operate.
Many contractors provide a guarantee that they will adjust or modify the system to reach a negotiated radon level. Carefully read the conditions of the contract describing the guarantee.
Important information that should appear in the contract includes: The total cost of the job, including all taxes and permit fees; how much, if any, is required for a deposit; and when payment is due in full. The time needed to complete the work. An agreement by the contractor to obtain necessary permits and follow required building codes typically for electrical applications.
A statement that the contractor carries liability insurance. Details of any guarantee to reduce radon below a negotiated level. Details of warranties or other optional features associated with the hardware components of the mitigation system. A declaration stating whether any warranties or guarantees are transferable if you sell your home A description of what the contractor expects the homeowner to do e.
A statement that the Contractor will be installing the complete system per EPA guidelines. How do I treat radon and how long will it take? Radon is mitigated by installing a system that will draw the radon-laden soil gas from beneath the foundation and exhaust it outside of the building, far enough away from windows and other openings that it will not reenter. A reduction system typically consists of a plastic pipe connected to the soil either through a hole in a slab, via a sump lid connection, or access beneath a plastic sheet in a crawl space.
Attached to the pipe is a quiet, continuously operating fan that discharges the radon outdoors. How this is done is a function of the construction of the home, rather than the radon concentrations that exist. A home with more than one foundation can presents challenges to collecting the soil gas from under all portions of the building. However, talented mitigation contractors typically can connect multiple systems together so that only one fan system is required.
Crawlspace foundations can be more costly, since the contractor needs to install a high density plastic sheet over the soil and sealed to the walls and then route the piping to the fan. However, the added benefit of reducing moisture in the crawlspace, in addition to reducing radon, can be a real plus. How much does a radon system cost? The cost to install a radon system can vary widely depending on the specific requirements for the system and the environment for which the system will be installed.
It is important to consider that as with many things, the varied cost of a mitigation system may be a direct function of the extra effort taken by the contractor to conceal the system and to maintain the aesthetic value of your home.
For example, some mitigators may propose to route a system outside a home in a place convenient for the mitigator but not disguised to protect the aesthetic value of the home. A quality mitigator will propose to route the system a bit further or, if possible, through the interior of the home with trim installed to conceal it considering the aesthetic value.
Always compare the contractors proposed costs and consider what you get for your money, taking into account: 1 a less expensive system may cost more to operate and maintain; 2 a less expensive system may have less aesthetic appeal; 3 a more expensive system may be best for your house; and 4 the quality of the building material will affect how long the system lasts.
Is the system I have installed a proper system? The following is a list of minimum standards and points to consider when verifying your Contractors work: The discharge point of the system will contain concentrated elevated levels of radon. To avoid exposure to occupants and neighbors it must be: At least 10 feet above grade At least 10 feet away from an opening which is two feet below the discharge and Above or at the eave of the roof. The piping can be routed up the outside of the home, but the discharge still must meet the above criteria to be a proper system.
System fans should not be located inside the home or in a crawlspace. They can be in attic, outdoors, or in a garage, provided there is no living space above the garage. A warning device must be installed to alert you if an active system stops working properly. The warning device must be placed where it can be seen or heard easily. Your contractor should check that the warning device works properly.
Power to the fan should be run in accordance with local electric codes; including permits where required. All portions of the system are to be labeled. This will avoid accidental changes to the system which could disrupt its function.
All homes with mitigation systems should be retested no sooner than 24 hours no later than 30 days after installation to verify reduction. The home should also be retested every two years. My neighbor's house came in low. Does that mean my house will have low levels also? You cannot predict radon levels based on state, local, and neighborhood radon measurements.
Do not rely on radon test results taken in other homes in the neighborhood to estimate the radon level in your home. Homes which are next to each other can have different indoor radon levels. Testing is the only way to find out what your home's radon level is. The house we're looking to purchase already has a radon system installed.
Do we need to check the radon levels? Not all systems are installed properly or succeed in lowering the radon levels sufficiently. Only testing will tell you whether the system that is already installed is effective in lowering the radon levels.
Sub Slab Depressurization is the most common and most reliable radon reduction method. This method prevents radon from entering your home by drawing radon from beneath the house and venting it with a fan to the outside, where it is diluted. In new homes, the cost to install a passive system is less since the system is installed during construction. No, sealing of wall and floor cracks is never a standalone radon technique. Radon is a gas, therefore, as a gas, it can move through a concrete slab.
Sealing large cracks, however, improves radon system performance. Yes, radon can move through a concrete slab, through block and concrete walls or any other building material in the home. If you have a radon source under the slab, you could have an elevated radon level in the home. Most radon reduction systems can be installed five to six hours. The EPA protocol states that the fan be placed outside the home due to the fear that some rubber coupling may leak and then radon would be pumped into your home or another reason to reduce the risk of extracting conditioned air from the home.
However, it is acceptable to mount the fan in the attic or garage. These installations entail extra costs and are not feasible on all homes. Aluminum downspout material has been tried in the past and due to some installer problems, has been banned in many states. Metal downspouts have a great heat transfer and can fill up with ice in winter, disabling the system when you need it most.
No alternative material has yet to be approved by the EPA. If you do your own test using a charcoal canister available at hardware and big-box home improvement stores, the minimum test period is 4 days 96 hours , and test results are available anywhere from three days to a week after the lab receives delivery of your canister.
The two and four-day tests are normally done for real estate transactions or to provide data for a homeowner concerned about the radon level in their home, but longer-term tests of 90 days or more are also available. Should I be concerned about it? Electrical Receptacle Outlets.
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